Durrelliott - News Source For Teenagers
close

Lifestyle

Lifestyle

Where to Eat, Stay, and Go


Lisbon has a San Francisco-like charm (or is it the other way around?)—down to the hills, cable cars, and Golden-Gate-style bridge (called 25 de Abril, to commemorate the 1974 military coup). Your visit is easily paired with Porto to the north, a quick zip down into the fabled Azores, or with numerous other European cities, per TAP Air’s Stopover Program (more on that below).

So stop putting off one of the tastiest, friendliest, brightest, most affordable European capitals. At any time of year, Lisbon outshines the rest, and it will color you charmed. For the rest of your life, you’ll recall the wine, seafood, pastries, music, tiling, and—we’ll stop there, but you get the idea.

Here’s what to see, eat, and do on your visit to Lisbon, as well as where to stay and how to get there.

How to Get to Lisbon

TAP Air Portugal has a stopover program that allows you to drop into Lisbon or Porto en route to your final European or African TAP destination (there are 70+, including others around Portugal). You can stay up to five nights at no extra cost to your airfare. (Check our Porto weekend guide here.) TAP has partnered with more than 150 hotels and service providers to enhance your stay, too. In the U.S., departure points include NYC, Miami, and Boston, with new roundtrip service from Chicago, Washington DC, and San Francisco starting in June 2019.

Where to Stay in Lisbon

Corpo Santo: You can’t get a better location than Corpo Santo, nor a more authentic-to-local 5-star experience. Its spot along Cais do Sodre puts you at the heels of all public transit in the city, along with walking distance to majority of the sites, nightlife, and commerce. Rooms and suites are understated and sophisticated, while decor and dining summon the azulejo-tile details you’ll see up and down the street. If your aim is relaxation and want to be spoiled, stay here.

The Lisboans Apartments: Much of Lisbon’s center has turned into an Airbnb free for all. It’s a sad reality, and a consequence of all the attention the world is giving Portugal now. If you want to find a happy medium between homestays and hotels, consider The Lisboans. It’s Airbnb-style living with 5-star-caliber details, tucked into the winding roads of Alfama. You’re a stone’s throw away from all the action (and right next to half the fun!). Best of all, you might get a few design ideas for your own home, because their taste is just that good.

What to Do in Lisbon

Fado: After dinner (or during), plant yourself in Bairro Alto or Alfama by 9 p.m. in order to get a genuine fado performance. You’ll get serenaded with mandolins and heartbreaking lyrics. You don’t need to know the words in order to feel the singers’ nostalgia for the past. (And don’t worry, it’s invigorating to experience, and not the least bit depressing.) Consider Clube de Fado or Mesa de Frades in Alfama, and Tasco do Chico or Adega Machado in Bairro Alto. See if they list performance times or have reservation options, just to be safe.

Belem Tower in Lisbon, Portugal
Belem Tower in Lisbon, Portugal joe daniel price / Getty Images

Padrão dos Descobrimentos maritime monument, Belém Tower, and Jerónimos Monastery: These three things needn’t be mentioned in the same breath, but they do come at you in quick succession as you walk the waterfront en route to Belém. Padrão dos Descobrimentos (The Monument of Discoveries) is a memorial for those who explored the high seas and helped build and defend Portugal as early as the 14th century; the monastery and tower are both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The monastery took 100 years to build in the 16th century, and was where many sailors prayed before setting sail. The tower was a lookout point and first line of defense for any soldiers on land.

Castelo de São Jorge: You can tour this medieval castle and its grounds from atop the Alfama neighborhood. It’s a good warmup for your day trip to Sintra.

Ride a cable car: If you must.

Museum of Art, Architecture, and Technology: It’s all in the name, with exhibitions from visionaries in all three fields. This newly opened museum is a worthwhile stop on your trek to Belém, and is itself an architectural marvel.

Museo Nacional do Azulejo: See tile displays and learn the history of Portugal’s famous hand-painted detail.

LX Factory: A hipster paradise in Alcântara, with lots of shops and restaurants quietly nestled under the bridge. Good for an easy lunch and a solo stroll.

Jardim de Estrela: Bring a book and relax under massive trees, or just lay out and people watch.

Neighborhood checklist: Stroll the following neighborhoods to get a good lay of the land.

  • Bairro Alto: meandering side streets and excellent nightlife in the city center
  • Alfama: hilly, cobbled streets and one of the city’s oldest neighborhoods
  • Santa Catarina: sprawling views from atop Bairro Alto
  • Cais do Sodre: a waterfront neighborhood perfect for a long walk down the coast, or a glass of wine at Time Out Market
  • Alcântara: docking district-turned-hipster-stomping-grounds
  • Belém: medieval architecture and waterfront memorials
  • Baixa: main shopping district, leading to the grand city square Praça do Comércio
  • Parque das Nações: shopping and lots of green space, as well the Oceanarium
  • Principe Real: hilltop boutique shopping
  • Avenida de Liberdade: high-end shopping
Museum of Art, Architecture, and Technology:
Museum of Art, Architecture, and Technology PYMCA / Contributor / Getty Images

Oceanarium: We know a good aquarium when we see one. And Lisbon’s is humbling. Whatever the current special exhibit is, get a ticket for that, too.

Avenida de Liberdade and Parque Eduardo VII: The city’s finest shopping district, and the park adjacent to it. Eduardo VII has lots of public events, book fairs, and walking mazes. There’s a good overlook of the city, too, if you climb the hill at its rear.

Carmo Convent: The skeletal but beautiful remains of a Gothic convent, which was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake.

Where to Eat and Drink in Lisbon

Taberna da Rua das Flores: Put your name in early, or enjoy the consolation prize of waiting your turn with a bottle of wine outside. Here’s another reason to get there on the earlier side of the evening: The local-fare menu changes daily, and the sooner you eat, the less likely it’ll be crossed off the chalkboard.

Time Out Market: We wouldn’t normally send you to a food court, but this one is a must. Dozens of notable (and classy) vendors line the perimeter, from dinner to dessert to wine, so that everyone can eat whatever they want. Stop by early in the day to check out the farmers’ and fish markets, too.

Restaurante Esperança: Italian excellence. Maybe it’s weird to seek out Italian in Portugal, but it’s still one of Lisbon’s best, plus the one in Chiado is on the Fado music street, Rua do Norte. (The one in Alfama is worth your stop, too.)

Pharmacia: The execution is a little odd (you’re sprawled out in lawn chairs and drinking from pharmacy-themed drinkware), but wine is wine, and the Tagus River view from atop Santa Catarina is incomparable.

Fumeiro de Santa Catarina: Smoked Portuguese tapas, tucked into the hilltop side streets of charming Santa Catarina.

COMOBA: Easy standard-fare morning eats in Cais do Sodre. Come for breakfast, brunch, or coffee.

A Tabacaria: Start your evening here, and come with an inventive mind. The bartender doesn’t use a menu. Just tell him your preferred flavors (like gin and spicy) or ask him to make whatever he wants. (He made me a pumpkin puree and mezcal cocktail, and he makes a killer cucumber and gin, too.)

Pastel De Nata
Pastel de Nata Lauren King / EyeEm / Getty Images

Lisboa Tu e Eu: An adorable seafood restaurant in Alfama. Pop in after exploring the historic neighborhood; it suits non-seafood eaters, too.

Lounge: An innovative name, no. A fun venue with a cool 20- to 30-something crowd with great DJs, yes.

Lux Fragil: Lisbon’s main club, but a guaranteed fun night if it suits your agenda. For good house music, go here around 2 or 3 a.m. on weekends—the locals stay out all night! Check their schedule, too, since Thursdays often entail a notable concert.

Atalho Real: Because sometimes you need some fine-ass steaks.

Tantura: Not Portuguese (it’s Israeli food), but also a perfect, bustling dinner joint—and every bit as flavorful as the local cuisine.

Pastéis de Belém: This is the place to get your pastéis de nata (also known as pastels de nata, which are those famous bite-size custard tarts).

Palacio da Pena, Sintra, Portugal
Palacio da Pena, Sintra, Portugal Carol Yepes / Getty Images

Day Trip from Lisbon: Sintra + Cascais

Hop the hour-long train to Sintra for a day of exploring castles, palaces, and the city’s pine-forest hills. That’s the main draw: the hike to the regal sites, as opposed to the town itself. (Though it’s every bit as charming as one would expect from Portugal.)

You can download the CP train app and buy your tickets there; otherwise it gets super crowded at the train station, with long lines all morning. So if you buy tickets there, give yourself an extra hour.

After arriving in Sintra, the three key stops for your hike (or taxi-hailing) are Quinta da Regaleira (palace grounds), Castelo dos Mouros (literally “Moorish castle”), and Pena Palace (a romantic palace and the most photographed of the three). All in, it can fill the day, so it might be worth cutting either of the first two, if you’re feeling diminishing returns. People always debate which one is cooler, so you just have to choose for yourself. Don’t miss the palace and grounds at Quinta da Regaleira, though. You can also add the city’s medieval Sintra Palace to your list if you’re having a regal fit for the day (with its outstanding Azulejo tile rooms), though I suggest you get on your way to Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point in continental Europe. Here you’ll get an expansive ocean panorama, but you won’t need to stay long. To get there, hail an Uber from Sintra, then offer the driver extra fare to wait for you there and finish driving you to Cascais after; it won’t cost you much, and will save you the impossible task of hiring a car from the coast.

Then, have the driver drop you in the seaside town of Cascais, which will grant you an easy 30-minute train home. (Be sure to check the train frequency and schedule the day before.) While in Cascais, you can cozy up with a glass of wine along the waterfront, which is often deemed the Riviera of Portugal. If you aren’t otherwise in need of a shower, stick around for some seafood, too. It’s a relaxing end to a hard-hiked day. (One of our favorite wine and seafood joints in town is The Tasting Room.)





Source link

read more
Lifestyle

Multi-Pitch Climbing in Red Rock Canyon


A rock climber leaves the comfort of 15-foot boulders to try their hand at 700-plus feet of multi-pitch traditional climbing.

Ten feet from the top of the sixth and final pitch, I’m suddenly staring at an overhung boulder. After more than 700 feet of climbing, this is my last unexpected obstacle before reaching the peak of my first multi-pitch climb. Exhausted, too short to reach the large jug to pull myself over, and desperate to get to the safety of the top, I cling to two crimps and haul myself over, shimmying on my stomach in a move climbers affectionately refer to as the “beached whale.” It isn’t graceful, but it’s the last bit of moxie I can muster after five hours of climbing. I take a big breath at the top and soak in the panoramic view of Red Rock and Las Vegas. Now all we have is a steep, hour-long scramble back down to the canyon floor.

In the years since I started rock climbing, I’ve seen it evolve from a niche hobby for “dirtbaggers” living out of their cars into a mainstream fascination, thanks in part to Free Solo. But while Alex Honnold’s feats of ropeless daredevilry are getting all the attention lately, almost all climbers rely on ropes to catch them. Even Honnold’s free solos comprise a small fraction of the real climbing he does; his preferred style is multi-pitch trad (short for “traditional”) climbing, where a climber links several pitches up a big wall while placing their own protection into cracks as they go up. El Capitan of Free Solo infamy is arguably the most famous big wall in the world.

Much like sprinting and marathon running are separate disciplines requiring distinct skill sets, it’s not a seamless transition between the three main climbing disciplines: boulder, sport, and multi-pitch trad. My climbing partner, Brodie, and I are primarily boulderers, so we were curious to see how two people who spend most of their time cranking on sub-20-foot boulders would stack up when faced with several hundreds of feet of climbing.

Getting High with 57Hours: Multi-Pitch Climbing in Red Rock Canyon
Elizabeth Yun

Stepping Out of the Comfort Zone

To step (or more accurately, claw desperately) out of my comfort zone, I enlisted the help of 57Hours, an app designed to pair adventure guides with people who are willing to push their boundaries. Their adventure offerings, which run the gamut of backcountry skiing, big wall climbing, mountain biking, ice climbing, and avalanche education, are designed for people who want to test their limits—both mentally and physically.

Like me, 57Hours co-founder Viktor Marohnic wasn’t a trad climber, but when he relocated from his native Croatia where sport climbing is king to New York City in 2010, he had to switch gears. The famous local crag the Shawangunks (the Gunks as it’s better known) in Upstate New York is notorious for its steep, challenging trad climbing. To try his hand at this riskier style, Marohnic enlisted the help of a guide. The experience inspired him to do another guided trip in the Tetons the following year, and he has been almost exclusively a trad climber since.

As a full-time mobile developer and an avid climber, skier, and runner, Marohnic wanted to bring more of his passion for outdoor adventuring to fellow desk jockeys who might get overwhelmed at the prospect of planning an adventure trip. It was this goal and the inefficiency of finding guides during his initial trips that made him launch 57Hours. I downloaded and signed up for the app, filled out my information, picked a date, and was paired with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, one of the most reputable guiding companies in America, within minutes. With 57Hours, clients are connected solely to certified American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) guides. Only those who have undergone the most rigorous training get AMGA certification, ensuring you’re being paired with experienced, safe, and capable people. This is critical in an industry where uncertified “pirate guiding” runs rampant and it’s your life on the line.

57 Hours in Southern Nevada

Red Rock Canyon in Nevada is a world-famous climbing destination. Just a 30-minute drive from the Las Vegas Strip, the massive national conservation area boasts some of the most interesting, varied, and aesthetic sandstone climbing in the world. (It’s no wonder Honnold made Las Vegas his home base.)

But with the beauty of Red Rock came a hurdle: There was rain forecast for Saturday, which would mean climbing on the signature red sandstone would be out of the question. Sandstone has a porous quality that absorbs water, making it very fragile when wet. The ethics of the area dictate that you have to give it at least two days to dry after a heavy rain or you could break holds and permanently damage classic routes. By Thursday, our guide had expressed his concerns about the weather and began formulating alternate plans for climbing on denser limestone instead.

Getting High with 57Hours: Multi-Pitch Climbing in Red Rock Canyon
Brodie Geers

We met our guide Nate Emerson early Saturday morning. Despite the clear skies, it had dumped rain all night on Thursday and Nate made the game-time decision to respect the fragile area and do some single-pitch sport climbing at a nearby limestone crag instead. After a day on the razor blades and cheese graters that make up the holds at the Gun Club on the La Madre Range, our hands were shredded and we were eager to switch to softer sandstone the next day.  

Getting Tunnel Vision

With 15 years of experience guiding everywhere from Denali to Red Rock, Emerson is personable, passionate about adventuring, and knowledgeable about the area’s history and surrounding wildlife. After testing our strength and climbing styles at the Gun Club, Emerson hand-picked our mission for Sunday: Tunnel Vision, a classic six-pitch, 5.7 route that takes you through a wide variety of climbing styles and unique rock features. His excitement about the route and his assurance that I was capable enough to do it put me at ease, but the idea of climbing more than 700 feet was making my stomach turn.

Tunnel Vision begins on a short, easy 5.6 pitch, into a long, fun chimney, through two pitches of exposed slab climbing, then to its namesake fifth pitch—a tunnel up through a dark cave. The final pitch throws a few technical moves at you before you get to the top, 770 feet above our start in the canyon below.

After a recap of the safety basics, rope management techniques, and how to remove the gear he places (known as “cleaning”), Emerson effortlessly led the first pitch and disappeared around a bulge 20 feet up. Once he was at the top and had set our belay anchors, he called down for me to start climbing. I was barely 15 feet off the ground before I had already gone into a full-on panic, manifesting into what climbers like to call “Elvis leg”—an uncontrollable, almost comical leg tremor. The grade is about as easy as climbing gets—5.6 would be a ladder by sport climbing standards, meanwhile 5.6 moves on a boulder problem would barely register as a grade. But there I was, shaking uncontrollably and the next 700-plus feet of progressively harder climbing suddenly felt pretty daunting.

Getting High with 57Hours: Multi-Pitch Climbing in Red Rock Canyon
Elizabeth Yun

I had forgotten that multi-pitch meant hauling a backpack, and the shift in my center of gravity came as a shock to someone who’s used to climbing unhindered. I managed to talk myself through the first pitch, fueled by my embarrassment and a lot of words of encouragement from Brodie below. After overcoming that mental block, we settled in and made quick work of the next chimney pitch before tiptoeing left to tiny footholds on a wide, blank face to begin the next two pitches of stomach-churning exposed climbing. You’re pumped and terrified and the thin length of bright blue rope that’s protecting you from a 300-plus foot fall is little comfort. Now that we had stepped out of the relative safety of the chimney, the reality of that fall became abundantly clear.

Controlled Risk-Taking

Already petrified on a top rope, where any unexpected fall would be arrested at no more than five feet, my mind is spinning imagining taking a fall on lead. Trad climbing falls of 20 feet or more are common, stopped only by a piece of temporary protection you placed yourself. These  devices have the potential of ripping out and making your fall even longer or, worse, causing a zippering effect where the subsequent pieces below it are overloaded and torn out in succession.

This increased risk is the reason most trad climbers only do routes that are well within their ability, but even then, outdoor climbing comes with a set of variables no level of due diligence can control. Emerson told us about a friend who took a huge, but thankfully safe, fall in Joshua Tree when a snake lunged at him from inside a hole in the rock. He himself had taken a 30-foot fall and broken his ankle when a foothold broke and his belayer had left too much slack in the line to catch him before he hit a ledge. It put into perspective that despite choosing routes that were within his comfort zone, he was assuming all the risk and trusting us to give him a safe catch in case the rock had other plans.

Getting High with 57Hours: Multi-Pitch Climbing in Red Rock Canyon
Elizabeth Yun

Emerson cruised through the route—which had me shaking and panting on a top rope. By the time we reached the tunnel pitch and the rock had taken on a slick, almost glassy quality, I was mentally drained and clawed my way up, driven almost exclusively by fear. Despite my discomfort, after making my way through the tunnel, the appeal of trad climbing became clear—you’ll never encounter routes, not to mention views, like this on a sport climb or a boulder. When we reached the top, the fear melted away and all that was left was an exhilarating sense of accomplishment. Tunnel Vision would have been a casual, fun day for seasoned trad climbers, but for me, it was a marathon, challenging me in ways my mind, endurance, and poor blistered feet never thought it would be.

Ultimately, this experience might not have converted this boulderer into a trad climber. But to look down from the peak to the base of the canyon, it was thrilling to think that we had made our way up hundreds of feet of some of the most unique climbing I had done in my life, and now we were rewarded with a panorama of Red Rock Canyon and the Las Vegas Strip in the distance.



Source link

read more
1 5 6 7 8 9 13
Page 7 of 13
Durrelliott - News Source For Teenagers